Sewing Therapy

I am a self-described introvert, homebody and someone who loves staying busy and creating things. I am also a social being who loves getting together with friends, sharing the process and experience of learning about new subjects, methods, expressing and creating.

Thankfully, most of our population still has technological means of communicating with society at large. I think this ability to remain connected, albeit primarily cyber-based at this point, will prove a saving grace for the world during this time. This said, living through the reality of the last few weeks of sobering pandemic statistics and country-wide mandated social-distancing has proven challenging on many levels. While it’s true the majority of us (save our sainted healthcare workers, law enforcement, military personnel and those working in the farming, grocery and trucking industries) have a lot more time on our hands these days, many individuals I’ve communicated with have also struggled with achieving a healthy sense of balance; between staying informed about the latest “breaking news”, fear-inducing, sometimes addictive saturation of press conferences and news briefings in connection with our present Coronavirus situation, and remaining mentally, emotionally and physically healthy; continuing to be productive and maintaining a sense of purpose.

One thing that has helped me feel like I’m making some sort of difference is making face masks. I’m using a pattern that pattern-maker, Peggy Sagers of Silhouette Patterns, designed. She consulted with physicians and Department of Health professionals to determine optimal features and provided shipping addresses and distribution portals where to send them. For links to the pattern and construction guide see the “features” section at

Here are photos of some of the face masks I made and that were shipped out last week.

Two layers of batik fabric (outer) and one layer of tee-shirt cotton knit (inner layer next to face.

It turns out many people in our country, including theater costume shops, are making face masks using a variety of patterns, materials and construction methods.

Second batch.

Some people who haven’t sewn anything for years are pulling out their sewing machines from storage, dusting them off and sewing masks to contribute to the effort.

It is rewarding to be making something useful during this present health crisis to be sure.

This said, it is discouraging to read negative, alarmist posts by nay-sayers on social media, criticizing everything from materials used, mask designs, practical application and potential threat of spreading disease. I’m guessing many of these same individuals are not making masks themselves, choosing instead, to criticize and complain about all of the above. Perhaps a better use of their time might be to brainstorm about practical solutions to the issues they raise.

I was telling my husband the other day that our current global struggles will (and already the case) surely bring out the best in people but also the worst. We will all need to heal, in several ways, when this current health crisis has run its course. Fear of what we know, the unknown and loss of control often breeds irrational behavior at times like these.

I also believe we will learn a lot about many things when we look back on this time in history.

Back to balance. Last week I was in mask-making “factory assembly” mode.

Over the weekend I decided to take a break from making masks and set my sites on finishing quilting the Queen-size quilt I had to put on hold just before Christmas last year. Happy to say I’m almost done.

Best wishes to all for optimal health-physical, emotional and mental well-being. We will get through this.

Look out everyone, the woman has an embroidery machine!

It’s a beautiful day here on the Central Coast of California. Bright sun, not much wind and relatively mild temps. I do not take our move here for granted, not for a second.

Although I try to live with a sense of balance from week to week throughout each year, the month of January always seems to inspire an added feeling of renewal, hope and resolve to improve all areas of my life.

Now on to the subject of today’s blog entry.

Among certain sewing circles it has been said in jest that one of the dangers of acquiring an embroidery machine is that using it becomes so addictive that the owner will want to embroider everything in their house. I will go one step further to say that one might feel compelled to embroider a gift for every member of their family.

I indeed have my fair share of embroidered, seasonal tea and bath hand towels in my home linen storage at the moment. (Oh yes, and a couple of pair of embroidered jeans in my closet as well) But the extent of my enthusiasm for all things machine embroidery really came to the fore when, with some amusement on my part, I looked around the room during our family’s recent gift exchange gathering and realized that I had embroidered gifts (tee-shirts, tea towels, pillow cases, shirts) for everyone in attendance!

Here are both a video and photo from a design I embroidered onto a shirt pocket of a brand of sport shirt our “passionate for all things fishing”, brother-in-law really likes.

This second image is the back of the shirt pocket before I tore away the stabilizer from the design and top-stitched the pocket back in place.

He was thrilled. Hooray!

Which brings me to my last topic, sourcing “canvases” for machine embroidery.

Since I’m still learning about best practice, methods and the variety of stabilization needed for embroidering various fabrics, I have no guilt in sourcing used clothing, blank canvas tote bags, aprons, shirts, old jeans, etc. to experiment with. My general rule is that the items I use must be clean and gently worn to fit the bill. It also feels great to give a piece a second life and often the price for such an item is more than reasonable.

All the above said, the purist in me still enjoys the challenge of making something completely from scratch. In addition to my new-found love of up-cycling, I intend to continue creating pieces anew, well into the foreseeable future.

And look out, the woman has an embroidery machine!

The Satisfaction Of Making Things For Others

While it’s true that I love sewing my own clothes and making things for our home such as quilts, pillows etc…it also gives me great pleasure to make things for others; Christmas and birthday gifts and donations to organizations such as Habitat for Humanity and Quilts of Valor.

Today I want to write about making things to donate. On this front, two such opportunities came to light last Fall. My first inspiration stemmed from an article I read in the October/November 2018 issue of Quilting Arts magazine, entitled “Artists Give Back” (pg. 29), in which the author, Jamie Fingal, described her “Hearts of the Home” quilt wall hanging project in conjunction with the Habitat for Humanity organization.

At the end of Ms. Fingal’s article there appeared a “reader’s challenge”; to make house-themed, 12×12″ quilted wallhangings with the intent of presenting these to Habitat for Humanity families upon the completion of their newly-constructed homes. Several of the reader’s challenge creations were to be featured in the Spring issue of Quilting Arts magazine and a firm submission deadline was set for December 1. What a joyful and inspiring prospect!

With this fresh inspiration in mind, I figured it was time to get cracking. My first attempt at the prescribed “Hearts of the Home” theme featured a simple house design including machine embroidery elements such as flowers and script. I chose a line from the Crosby, Stills and Nash song, “Our House” and realized well after the fact that I added an extra “very” to the lines of text. (it was definitely a “keep off off the grass” sign moment, where the mind corrects and erases redundancy while reading) I also incorporated some hand-embroidery elements for the cat facial features and whiskers.

My second attempt for this particular project I titled “Home Safe” and was inspired by the 1922 Craftsman bungalow, “Elmdale” design. I chose batik fabric scraps from my most recent “Storm at Sea” quilt and using this as the background, wanted to create the feeling of everyone being safely inside the house for the night. The night sky fabric reminds me of Van Gogh’s iconic “Starry Night” painting. My tendencies to get a bit carried away with attention to detail definitely came into play here, especially with the house detail and the bicycle. When the Quilting Arts Spring issue was released in late February earlier this year, I was delighted to discover this second piece was chosen as one of the featured submissions in the follow-up magazine article. (Quilting Arts, April/May 2019 issue, page 77)

The inspiration: The “Elmdale”

I first heard about the “Quilts of Valor” organization (see during an informative presentation given by our CA Central Coast regional representative, Mary Carnegie, at our local VFW chapter last November. I learned that quilters from all over the U.S. are creating patriotic-themed Quilts (approximately 60×80″ in size) for specially- nominated veterans on an ongoing basis. Sewn with love and appreciation for our Vets and their years of service, these lap blanket-sized quilts are presented to numerous nominated candidates at commemorative patriot ceremonies throughout each year. As it happened, my maternal grandfather fought in WWI (Army), my father-in-law served as a Chaplin’s assistant (also Army) on the battlefields all over Europe during WWII and my father and his brother (Navy and Army respectively) both served in the Korean conflict back in the 50’s, so for me, contemplating making a “Quilt of Valor” is personal as I’m sure it is for many of the quilters sewing quilts for this particular cause.

At this point I have purchased the fabric and chosen the design for my first Quilt of Valor and look forward to sharing the finished piece here in a future post.

Design Inspiration At Large

I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve approached a stranger to either compliment them on their beautiful item of clothing or, even more bold on my part, ask if I could take a photo of the garment they are wearing. One day I may receive a less-than receptive response to the above social interactions, but so far the subjects of my inspiration have been friendly and seemingly flattered by my interest in their wardrobe choices especially when I share the fact that I make my own clothes.

Here are some of my favorite inspiration photos:

1. A “Moto Jacket” with a combination of leather pared with knit center panels and sleeves.

2. A herringbone tweed sport coat with unique piecing detail in back:

3. Fixed, looped lacing detail on a woven v-neck top.

I’ve also been inspired by architectural elements for potential quilt design themes. Here are some floor tiles from Sainte-Chapelle in Paris that caught my eye the last time I visited this beautiful landmark:

Lastly, I’ve found that museums provide wonderful design inspiration as well. I love Sashiko embroidery and plan to incorporate this Asian style of embellishment on a garment or perhaps a quilt sometime soon. Here is a sample of the “real deal” I saw at the textile portion of the deYoung Museum in Golden Gate Park, San Francisco:

I look forward to what inspiration may present itself in the future.


A couple of years ago I jumped onto the Pinterest train in earnest and suffice to say it’s been an education! Although I’d previously experimented with Pinterest when it was first introduced several years ago, I didn’t spend much time adding things or cultivating any real collections other than a pinning a few photos here and there.

When I started educating myself about how to use my new embroidery machine, I noticed someone’s Pinterest “pin” about an embroidery design they liked and where they found it. This prompted my subsequent Pinterest search for the design source and suffice to say, Pandora’s box was opened.

I loved seeing what other people were pinning for embroidery design inspiration and relished exploring options beyond the stock designs that came pre-loaded with my machine, I frankly didn’t have a clue where to begin sourcing quality embroidery designs up to that point. What a wonderful resource for sparking additional design ideas the Pinterest site proved to be.

On a whim, I decided to enter a search for “Antique Singer Sewing Machines” and was astounded when the Pinterest floodgates opened wide. In addition to Singer sewing machines, there were hundreds of additional varieties, brands and manufacturers to behold, so much so that I was inspired to create my own board on Pinterest entitled “Antique and Vintage Sewing Machines”. This, along with my “Sewing Inspiration” and “Extraordinary Recipes” boards have proven a very time-addictive research pastime. The whole activity now feels akin to being an electronic stamp collector, especially when learning about international brands of machines, such as my most recent discovery the “Tula” model from Russia.

I knew from my previous sewing machine restoration research that Singer sewing machines were widely popular throughout the late 19th and the majority of the 20th centuries. What I didn’t fully realize was how many hundreds of different brands and manufacturers of sewing machines existed early on. I knew about Pfaffs, Berninas, Vikings, Brothers, Whites, Elnas, and Necchis to name a few, but the Pinterest search engine quickly educated me that those machines were only the tip of the iceberg.Photo credit: New York Sewing Center

So far, I’ve created more than 185 different sections of sewing machine manufacturers within my Antique and Vintage Sewing Machines Pinterest board. Some of my favorites include the old anchor-shaped British-made machines, the earliest Singers and Pfaffs of course, but what also delights me is seeing the Art Deco-inspired Morse Machines, space-age/Flash Gordon-influenced Singer “Rocketeer” models, the mod colors of machines from the 60s and 70s.

Photo credit: Stephanie Moore

Photo credit:

Some machines made in the 30s-50s seem to mimic the look of vintage radios complete with tuner dials and frequency-gauge details.

Photo credit:

Many sewing machines seem to reflect the decor and characteristics of their specific time and era. If you enjoy exploring Pinterest, I hope you will check out several of my boards there. I’m sure I’ll be adding more pins sometime soon.

“E&W Automatic” American History Textile Museum

Here is a link to my Antique and Vintage Sewing Machines Pinterest board:

Another restoration tale

In my previous blog entry entitled “The Singer and the Singer”, I wrote about my earliest sewing experiences using my mother’s Singer 221 “Featherweight” sewing machine.

What I didn’t mention was that after my mother and I acquired newer sewing machines in the early 1970s, the trusty 1953 Featherweight was loaned to one of my aunts with a loosely-specified, long-term use arrangement. As it happened, many years elapsed during which time both my mother and aunt subsequently passed away. I never knew what happened to this special little machine. I do remember my mother telling me she thought my aunt had loaned the Featherweight to a friend in the late 1980s or perhaps eventually donated it.

Fast forward to a recent visit to my uncle’s home, where a major move was imminent including the packing up of decades-worth of accumulated possessions. Upon entering each room, it was apparent that a major attempt at “down-sizing” had begun in earnest. Near the end of our visit, my uncle asked me if I wanted what he thought to be my grandma’s old sewing machine. I told him I would. At that point my uncle pulled out a familiar-looking little black case and low and behold, it wasn’t my grandmother’s sewing machine after all, (hers was a circa 1935 Singer machine with a bentwood case). The sewing machine my uncle presented to me was actually my mother’s original 1953 221- Featherweight! What a delightful and unexpected surprise!

Upon returning home later that afternoon, I unpacked the little 11 pound wonder and took an initial inventory, noting that though the original presser foot was still on the machine, none of the extra feet, tools or attachments were there. I rotated the flywheel by hand and the needle/hook mechanism still seemed operational. There didn’t appear to be any rust and the machine decals seemed to have favorably stood the test of time.

The electric power supply and foot pedal were still connected to the machine and both cords were cracked in several places, revealing exposed wires. I elected not to plug anything in to any electrical outlets and resisted trying the machine’s on/off switch until taking everything to my trusted local repair tech who faithfully services my other machines.

As for the manual, I already knew I wouldn’t find it within the case. Thinking my Mother’s Singer 221 Featherweight machine was long gone, I sold the original manual on EBay four years ago!

And so began the process of bringing my Mother’s Singer 221 Featherweight back to her previous glory.

After dropping off the Featherweight at the repair shop, my second order of business was to source out a replacement manual which, after a comprehensive search on EBay, I’m happy to report proved ultimately successful. It’s a reprint and larger in scale than the original, but I like the larger photos and print. The next step was to look for a box of Featherweight accessories. Thankfully a couple of options were available on that front as well. I also found a source for bobbins.

This most recent search activity felt a bit like a scavenger hunt and fondly reminiscent of my previous Singer 66 part replacement quest undertaken during that machine’s restoration process described in my earlier post, “The Singer and the Singer”.

If all the accessory gathering activity described above wasn’t fun enough, I discovered a favorite vendor of mine was running an extraordinary special on “Sew Steady” tables. As luck would have it, there was an option for a Singer Featherweight cutout. Since I’m planning to be using my little vintage machine for quilt piecing and top-stitching after she returns from her restoration adventure, I decided to add a “Sew-Steady” table to my new setup with the idea that it will be great to have an extended sewing surface option to work with.



After over four weeks in the shop, she’s back in her new home at last! Thanks to Paul Howell of Howell’s Sewing Machine Repair in Paso Robles, CA. Lots of TLC and patience later, here is my Mom’s little Featherweight, all polished and ready to fly into action.

Not only did she get all new rubber feet but also an updated power cord.

An unexpected bonus was thrown into the mix, a vintage button-hole maker with templates!

Lastly, here she is with her custom “Sew Steady” table, ready for some serious quilt-piecing in the near future.

Yardage in my closet

This old favorite, an over-sized tunic top of mine, was really close to being moved into the donation bag until it’s transformation earlier today.

I believe I’ve held on to it for so long because I loved the loose weave fabric and the color. Even though it’s technically a size “small”, my 5’3 frame was and always has been “swimming” in it.

As I pondered the fate of this particular article of clothing, I remembered something I saw Peggy Sagers of Silhouette Patterns demonstrate not long ago, treating an over-sized garment as “yardage”. She shared an effective method of how to create a new top into a smaller size. Brilliant.

Using Peggy’s inspiration as a guide, here’s how I did mine:

First, I bravely got out my super sharp Kai scissors and cut the side seams open up to the shoulders, also cutting off the sleeves in the process and leaving both the shoulder and sleeve side seams in tact. Oddly liberating…..

Next, I opened out the front and back sections and folded them in half at center front and back. I laid down corresponding front and back pieces from a pattern I like directly on top of the folded sections, extending each pattern a bit beyond the shoulder seams to allow for the already sewn seam allowances. I then cut out my front and back pattern pieces as usual.

As you can see, since I wanted to preserve the length, circumference and knitted hem of my original garment, I used my French Curve ruler to blend the side seams of the pattern to those on my tunic. I then folded my sleeves in half the same way as I did with the tunic body sections and cut these following the lines of the pattern sleeve. Since my tunic sleeve side seams were already sewn, I first stitched the side seams of tunic body and then set in the sleeves following with a serged finish for both.

Without really planning it, my new sleeves ended up being exactly 3/4 in length whereas previously I had to triple-roll them up to be above my wrists.

All in all, this remake took me less than an hour to accomplish. I was able to preserve the woven neckline treatment, shoulder seams, knitted sleeve and tunic hems and now have a much more flattering “go-to” piece that I dare say will be worn much more often than the original.

This entire process was ultimately satisfying on many levels. Whatever one might want to call the process, “upcycling”, “repurposing” or simply a “remake”, it feels great to know I’ll continue to get use out of this newly-fashioned piece for some time to come.

Made it!

After several weeks of holiday activities, making gifts, cooking detailed recipes and hosting house guests, I haven’t found time to blog in a while. It is now February and low and behold, 2018 has come and gone. While this past year held some inevitable challenges, there have also been noteworthy triumphs to report. These are what I choose to write about today.

First, I’m happy to report that I made it all the way through 2018 without buying any “ready-to-wear” clothing. (this is in reference to my previously-mentioned, self-proclaimed RTW fast (inspired by Sara Gunn of fame). Now I find myself already into my second month of my second year without buying any RTW. What has this particular challenge taught me? A number of things as it turns out.

But first, I’ll begin by reviewing what was already in my closet at the beginning of 2018.

It’s been over two years since moving to the Central Coast region of California from the wonderful, sometimes bracingly brisk, state of Minnesota where I lived for 22 years. While I successfully donated and consigned a significant amount of my clothing and fabric stash prior to packing up everything into the moving van headed West, I’ve continued the process of wardrobe reevaluation and subsequent donation ever since, systematically redefining what I really need and what I don’t with each passing month. For example, the majority of my professional activity in the years prior to our cross-country move was defined by my University teaching position in MN.

My professional wardrobe for a typical academic year included a variety of jackets, dress pants, skirts and dresses (not to mention lots of coats!). Where I live now, I dress MUCH more casually.  Aside from my month away in the summer, teaching at a music academy in the Midwest, the majority of the private voice lessons I teach now happen in my home studio or online, via Skype or FaceTime. My goal in these circumstances is to continue to dress professionally but not too formally. (Artsy tops and tunics with dressier, stretch-woven jeans or slacks)

Years ago I had my colors done and was told I was a “Winter” at that point. I still have many pieces of clothing in my closet within that particular color palette, especially blacks and whites. However, a close friend recently shared the “Dress Your Truth” ( color palette model with me which, among other things, takes into account, specific factors such as personality traits, facial features, skin tone and hair texture.

I was curious about this concept and started exploring the “DYT” philosophy of color and style in the past year. It appears I’m most probably a “Type 2” primary with a “Type 1” secondary. The DYT color and pattern model translates for me personally into more muted shades, fluid lines and s-curve patterns, inspiring some changes in the colors I’m regularly wearing (and sewing) while reinforcing, if sometimes previously-suppressed, inclinations toward color and expression of my personal style. I’ve started experimenting with adding new colors to my wardrobe, the most significant being mauves and coral pink. I began to suspect I was on the right track with my color experimentation when people began commenting on how flattering a piece of clothing looked on me, especially when I started wearing one of these newer (to me) colors. Another interesting thing to come out of all of the above is the realization that some of the fabrics I’ve chosen to wear from the “Winter” color palette in the past have been “wearing” me instead of me wearing them.

With the addition of developing my machine embroidery chops and viewing current fashion catalogs, it’s safe to say my sewing creativity has been stimulated a great deal in the past year.

Finally, things I’ve gleaned from engaging in a year-long+ RTW fast:

While I haven’t spent any money buying RTW clothing in 2018 (save a few pair of shoes and a couple pieces of accent jewelry), I have definitely purchased a LOT more fabric this past year. To be fair, this most recent textile investment trend was strongly influenced by visiting iconic fabric shops while on recent trips to New York and San Francisco. This said, one never needs to leave home these days to find extraordinary fabric-buying options, especially with access to fantastic online resources such as MarcyTilton, SilhouettePatterns, Emmaonesock, Etsy, EBay, Mood,, VogueFabrics and so many more. Our daughter’s reaction to the above activity prompted the following recommendation: “Maybe you should embark on a fabric fast this year Mom”. Interesting suggestion….

I’ve discovered that I’ve become even pickier than ever before regarding how my clothes fit now. All alteration skills aside, in the time I have designated to exclusively making my own clothes, I find I no longer have any excuses regarding wearing poorly-fitting garments moving forward.

Will I continue with the RTW fast in 2019? Maybe so, for a time. We’ll see…I currently have some fantastic material to sew with, more pattern muslins to experiment with and these will keep me venturing forth to my designated sewing space almost every day.

A stitch in time……


I’ve been wanting to try my hand at machine embroidering on jeans for some time now. Katrina Walker’s Craftsy class, “Machine embroidery on denim” had been sitting on my wish list queue for quite a while. I finally took the plunge and invested in the online class, watching each of the sessions all the way through. Ms. Walker’s teaching style is clear, practical and inspiring. She demonstrated how to achieve the best results with machine embroidery on both woven and stretch denim, using specific designs, choosing stabilizers and planning out design layouts using grain lines and position reference points. A recent addition to my machine embroidery practice includes printing out a design chart which is a useful visual aid when planning sizing and layout of my designs on clothing, dish towels etc., as many possibilities as one’s imagination may allow.

Earlier today I pulled out a pair of stretch denim jeans, measured where I wanted my design path to start and set about picking out the inseam of one of the legs. Fortunately this pair didn’t have top stitching on the inseam so the reassembly should be pretty simple.

My next step was to draw my chalk grain lines and cross hair markings, lay out my design and plan out my placement on the jean leg.Thread choice was a bit tricky since this was a spontaneous effort. I decided to “audition” some poly thread spools I had on hand.

Once my thread colors were chosen, I positioned my stabilizer in place (I used one layer of Pellon water-soluble sticky stabilizer then laid in a layer of sturdy cut-away) and into the hoop everything went. I also changed my needle to a size 16 denim needle.

After fine-tuning my precise-positioning tool it was time for stitch-out at long last.

As you can see from the videos, everything was going well with the first step of the design. The only real issue I had was with the dusty pink-colored thread which was of a lesser quality and from some of the older (20+ years) thread I had on hand. But I took a risk because I liked the color. The dusty pink thread broke more often than I care to admit, reminding me that you get what you pay for when it comes to all things related to machine embroidery. There was also a brief bit of bobbin drama during the dusty pink thread stage of the stitch out….okay already, no more cheap old thread!

Once the first design was completed, I reversed it to a mirror image on my machine screen then re-hooped, drew a new chalk cross hair, then stitched out the second design, connecting it with the first. ***What I will do differently next time= cut an extra long piece of stabilizer so I won’t have to double up on layers of stabilizer when re-hooping.***

Here is my finished first attempt, all ready for the inseam to be re-sewn and the hem top-stitched (I will change the color of the hem thread so as not to clash with the new embroidery design though).

All in all, I’m happy with my first attempt and will actually wear these jeans sometime soon.

Yoga Pants Fitting Frenzy

I’m happy to report that I’ve successfully emerged from the period of sewing inertia described in my last post and have been actively at my sewing machines again with mostly positive and illuminating results. An interesting and unanticipated added benefit of being productive these last few weeks is that this increased activity has yielded improvement in other areas of my life, including regular exercise, vocal practice and maintaining a healthier diet. Funny how that works.

My main focus these last several days has been to finally nail down the fit of a basic pair of yoga pants and leggings. You, the reader of this blog may ask, with two to three simple pattern pieces, just how hard could it be? Let me tell you, although the actual sewing part is not particularly difficult, creating flattering, comfortable and usable yoga pants is more challenging a process than it may seem. Add the variables of body shapes, different fabric content and drape and it becomes an ongoing lesson in discovery.

As a pear-shaped individual, the fitting challenges of length, circumference and depth are an ongoing issue, especially when it comes to crotch length/depth. I personally need more crotch length in the back, but the conventional default method of adding inches to the top of the pant doesn’t effectively fix my particular fitting issue. Ask me how I know? Many women have various curves and length issues that occur at the hip line (depth) as well as just below the intersection of the inseam, center back and front, (length=sagging wrinkles in the back thigh area). These sagging lines can occur in even the slimmest of women. The above fitting issues are instances where fitting darts added to the initial muslin come in so handy.

In my case, cutting a horizontal slash at the hip line, adding length at the center back seam, filling in with extra fabric (pinning or sewing in place) then tapering to nothing at the side seams works much better in creating the extra length I need to prevent the top of my waistline pulling down, especially when sitting. Creating a horizontal dart just below the top of the front and back inseam then tapering to nothing at the side seams fixes the sagging back at the upper thigh area beautifully. Of course, these extensions and darts are for the fitting muslin only, then I alter my pattern accordingly.

I’ve compared various rises, front and back, from several patterns, both leggings and yoga pants. As it happens, the pattern that fits me best right out of the envelope (or my printer in the case of a downloaded pattern), is Style Arc’s “Margaret” stretch pant. I was curious why this was the case so I compared my altered Vogue, V1440 Donna Karan leggings pattern with the Style Arc “Margaret” pattern, laying the front and backs of each, one on top of the other, I was amazed to see they were almost an exact copy of one another. Then I had an idea; I would re-draw the front and back rises from the Style Arc Pattern on to my traced Silhouette Patterns Yoga Pant patterns and voila! My next attempts at the Silhouette Pattern yoga pant patterns fit me much better.

Variances in fabric content also make a remarkable difference. I like my yoga pants and leggings to fit relatively snuggly but not uncomfortably so and certainly not baggy, especially in back. Even with a well-fitting pattern, it’s tricky when working with knits, especially when considering the differences in weight, stretch and recovery memory after bending and sitting. The heavier the fabric, the snugger the fit. Experience teaches me that it does not pay to buy cheap knit fabric when making your own pants. The seams tend to ripple and the stretch memory is almost non-existent. Tops are more forgiving in this regard, but when it comes to active wear, it’s worth investing in fabric that behaves well (drape and stretch memory-wise) throughout the day.

In the midst of all my experimenting, I’ve raided my fabric stash and used a variety of low-priced, yet decent quality fabrics I’ve picked up on sale over the years with the express intent of making knit muslins. Some of my recent yoga pant attempts will now be used as pajama bottoms and the others I will potentially wear around the house or may serve as fabric references the next time I make up each pattern.

Here are the Silhouettes 3400 yoga pants with the altered rise (still a little sagging in back thigh area):

Here are the Style Arc “Margaret” pants (no alteration other than shortening the hem):

Much better.

A word about stitching choices. I either use the “stretch stitch” on my regular sewing machine or the four-thread overlock stitch to sew all the pant seams. A woman in the sewing workshop I attended last Fall shared a story where she made a pair of yoga pants and sewed them together using a regular straight stitch. The first time she wore them in public was when she was out walking her dog. Within the first ten minutes, the thread in her pant seams began breaking as she walked, yielding the seams to pop open with every ensuing step of her stride. Needless to say, her dog got a very short walk that day and those pants needed to go back to her sewing machine.

My new serger (also a coverlock machine) has a wonderful safety stitch combo option that I hadn’t tried previously. I been experimenting with using it these last couple of weeks and find I now want to use it almost exclusively when sewing active wear. The safety stitch combines a chain stitch with a 3-thread overlock stitch and allows for great mobility while being incredibly strong. This said, figuring out how to thread my machine correctly for this new stitch option took over an hour. I was referring to the printed diagram in my machine manual but this was an instance where watching the companion DVD yielded quick success at long last. I’m definitely a visual learner when it comes to sewing.

My enduring take away from this most recent flurry of pants fitting activity is that after much trial and error, it’s been worth taking the time to compare patterns and risk some failures. It’s true that I ended up with some duds, but in the end, I now have a customized and usable base for several different yoga and leggings pant pattern styles to choose from. I will now proceed with renewed confidence and resolve to cut and make some flattering and usable pants from the beautiful knit and stretch woven fabrics I’ve invested in in recent years.

Lastly, I’m happy to report that I’ve now made it to my ninth month of my self-prescribed ready-to-wear fast for 2018. Aside from shoes and jewelry, everything new that I’ve added to my wardrobe this year I’ve made myself. I’ve also donated just as many if not more items of clothing to charity. It’s been an interesting experiment so far and believe I can successfully make it to the end of the year without buying any ready to wear clothing. I’ll will report back on this front again soon.